Loyalty Beach

This weekend is an opportunity to escape the "Rock". To be somewhere else rather than on  an island that is 5 square kilometres in size. Somewhere I have not been before and somewhere with some privacy - an escape.
An opportunity to explore, and do some birding.
Loyalty beach is a campground on the Cape York Peninsula. Run by Dan and Patsy Lennox (https://www.loyaltybeach.com/about) and caters for all camping styles. The camp ground has plenty of amenities and hotel style accommodation with a beer garden at the northern most point. I am told that the fish and chips are pretty good here. 
For me the priority was a relax and an opportunity to walk the long beaches and explore the bush nearby. This is also a birding hotspot (http://ebird.org/ebird/hotspot/L2533974) for those that are interested and needless to say I managed to get some great shots over the two days of my stay.

View from our cabin

Flower Heads

Mistletoebird

Sunbird - out on a limb

Sunbird - female

Dusky Honeyeater

Red-Browed Firetail

Loyalty Beach

Papuan Frogmouth

Papuan Frogmouth - lifer for me

Loyalty Beach Camp Ground

Sunset - Loyalty Beach Camp Ground

Leaden Flycatcher

Fairy Gerygone

Part of an old midden - found whilst exploring the northern beach

Dugong - found at one of the local camps

Termite Mound - Loyalty Beach

Seisia

Seisia Jetty

A Trip to the Tip

One of the advantages of travelling and ending up on Thursday Island for several contracts this year, is that I have also had easy access to the Cape York Peninsula. For more information check out this website (http://www.capeyorkinfo.org). 

Standing at the "Tip of Australia" - bucket list moment

There are several options for getting to the Cape from Thursday Island. You can hire a chopper for a short 12 minute ride, take your own boat or catch the local ferry (http://peddellsferry.com.au) which runs twice daily Monday to Friday during the tourist season, and Monday, Wednesday, Friday in the off season. In this way you can get there the same day, without having to drive for thirteen hours from Cairns to Bamaga. Don't get me wrong ... that is still on my bucket list. At this time I do not have the vehicle and equipment to tackle such a trip. Meanwhile, I have been lucky to explore it from another vantage point.

When I travel to the Cape, I take the ferry to Seisia and arrange in advance to be picked up by the kind people at Loyalty Beach for a minimal fee (https://www.loyaltybeach.com) or on other trips, by one of the locals, (Des Dean). Des lives in Bamaga, with his wife Giz who works at the local Primary Health Care (PHC) Centre. Des has been living in the Cape and Torres Strait region for several years and knows the area very well.

Des

June 15th, is a return visit to the Cape and this time we were to head to "the tip". The northern most point of the Australian mainland. Once again Des was taking me for a drive to explore and showing off the country that he knows so well. First stop - Bamaga road house for lunch supplies. If you are lucky, you might even pick up some of the crocodile spring rolls. Note: There are limitations on what food you can bring from Thursday Island to the mainland due to quarantine regulations. For example, you cant bring fruit or vegetables.
We headed up the road towards Pajinka and stopped in at the "Croc Tent" first off to meet some of the locals and pick up some of the obligatory souvenirs.
 

Pajinka Road

Tawny-Breasted Honeyeater

There are quite a few points of interest on the cape so it pays to make sure to plan plenty of time. Why come all this way and not check it all out? Pajinka is the Aboriginal name for the area at the top most point of mainland Australia. There used to be a Wilderness Lodge situated 500meters from the tip which is now pretty much in ruins. You can still see evidence of the sporting grounds, the pool and the cabins that once graced the area. The forest is slowly reclaiming the grounds and it is a recognised hotspot for birders (http://ebird.org/ebird/australia/hotspot/L2534004). We did not have the time on this visit to spend much time in search of the local wildlife.

On arrival at the car park, there are two options. Setting out over the hill - believe me, it is worth the walk. The views are superb, I do recommend wearing sturdy shoes though as the rocks can be slippery in the wet. Take plenty of water and take your time to enjoy the experience.  If you happen to be there at low tide you can walk around the headland from the car park to the tip with less effort but then you miss the stunning view from the top.

Our next stop was Somerset, the original administrative hub of the Torres Strait before it was moved to Thursday Island in 1877. The history of this area is quite extensive and worth a read if you are interested in doing some searches. (http://www.cape-york-australia.com/site-map.html).

We also stopped in at Fly point before heading back to the west side of the cape to Cable Beach and Punsand bay for a late lunch at the Camp grounds there. 

 

 

The Top End

My first trip to the Cape was to Fruit Bat Falls. I caught the ferry to Seisia, and then travelled south through Bamaga stopping long enough to capture a photograph of a Palm Cockatoo - an endemic species to the cape and my first tick for the day. 

Palm Cockatoo

Coming through Bamaga you have to be aware of all the wild horses that roam freely throughout the town and surrounding areas and are likely to decide to cross the road at any given moment. Take care not to hit one - because they are locally owned and, it will cost you. We got lunch at the Bamaga Roadhouse .... 

Our next stop was at the old DC3 crash site. The wreck is a RAF plane that went down during WW2 carrying staff and supplies. The wreck site is quite well maintained and you can still see the scars on the land where the aircraft came down in a heavily forested area.We then continued south along the Bamaga Road to the Jardine River Crossing. 

Give yourself plenty of time in the peak season due to the queues and make sure you avoid the lunch break because the ferrymen do stop for their breaks despite the numbers waiting.There is a camp ground here if you wish to stay as well as many others along the way. It should be noted that most guides give instructions for the drive heading north starting at Bramwell Junction.  So if it seems a little confusing bear that in mind. 

Bamaga Road heading south towards the Jardine River Crossing

One of the most satisfying parts of the day for me was being back on the red roads of the outback. I think I am at my happiest in the bush and to leave the island for a day and spend the day driving and exploring the cape was a treat. The terrain is quite spectacular - alternating between heathlands and banksia forests with some of the largest termite mounds I think I have ever seen. The road had been recently graded on this trip with minimal corregations present.

Junction to Fruit Bat Falls

Take the sign posted turn off into Fruitbat Falls - which has a picnic area and toilets available. This is a day area only so no camping. It is an easy walk down to the falls for some spectacular views and a refreshing swim. There are a few options here - you can swim under the falls or in the plunge pool above. Quite refreshing on a warm day.

Fruit Bat Falls

Board walk from day parking area to the Falls

The plunge pool

The bush here is worth spending time to explore too with - carnivorous plants such as pitcher plants and sundews. If you have an eagle eye you can also spot black ordchids amongst the banksias and eucalypts.

Banksia

Pitcher Plant found along the boardwalk at Fruit Bat Falls

An interesting little billabong we spied along the way. There were heaps of sundew on the ground.

Elliot creek was too high to cross this day so we were unable to visit Twin and Elliot Falls and so we took the time to stop in at Injinoo - (One of the communities that make up the Northern Peninsula Area) on our way back to meet the afternoon ferry back to Thursday Island.

Injinoo Cemetery

Injinoo Waterfront